Ghana High: A Culinary Institution
WORDS BY OLALOYE OYEDOTUN // PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHELLE IGWILOWhen I was 13, my appendix became inflamed to the point of almost rupturing. We were lucky enough to catch it in good time and I had surgery at my favourite hospital, St Nicholas in Lagos Island.
It is strange to say ‘favourite hospital’, however, it was mine because it was a 10-minute drive from Ghana High, a Nigerian ‘Bukateria’ of legendary proportions, and going there was guaranteed if I was ill.
My family still occasionally teases me for coming out of the surgery, and while still mildly under the effects of anaesthesia, requesting for my Ghana High Jollof rice with an assortment of meats, aka, the usual. I had not asked for my mother or father, but Ghana High, the original Iya Basira.
So, what is in an institution? What makes an experience so memorable that it is inextricably linked with a physical location?
Originally on the corner of King George road, Ghana High has been a Lagos establishment for over 25 years. During their time at King George, it was common to find the restaurant so crowded that people ate while on their feet. It takes its name from the period in which it was located a stone’s throw away from the High Commission of Ghana’s Lagos office. According to different sources, it started out catering to the Ghanaian contingent, only for the food to eventually prove popular with the locals; as Nigerians say, ‘who no like good thing?’ It moved to its most recent location on 34 Macarthy Street, Onikan 12 years ago.
Ghana High is said to have done more for the international relations between Nigeria and Ghana than prior presidents. It has belonged to Lagos Island and Lagos Island to it for a long time. Without doubt, when you consider venturing into the confusion that is Lagos Island and its endless traffic, few things make it worthwhile. Ghana High is on that rarefied list.
The founder of Ghana High, Mrs Fatima Afansi, a Togolese lady who is now of beloved memory, made the restaurant name something of a misnomer. She left the budding institution to her daughter Veronica Adade. The restaurant currently employs 30 people, 29 of whom are Togolese, highlighting the best known secret in Lagos that the best cooks and chefs in the 234 are of Togolese descent. Ghana High also provides catering services across Nigeria. Within this burgeoning outfit, they have crafted one of the most perfect Jollof experiences. If you know Nigeria, you understand that as a people, we are fiercely protective of Jollof rice, a dish which originated from the Wolof people of Senegal, but which we have adopted as our own.
The initial challenge once we arrive at Ghana High is finding adequate parking space. This is a problem which plagues most of Lagos Island and Marina, Lagos’ answer to Wall Street. After navigating this obstacle, and parting with 200 to 500 naira, which is one problem dealt with, we make our way into a narrow corridor which does not look like it leads anywhere interesting, however a small sign in Coca-Cola red which says ‘Ghana High Restaurant’ says otherwise. Now, we start to get a hint that we are in the right place and something magical might occur. Unfortunately, it is a false alarm, and we are told that they do not sell takeaway containers within the restaurant and we must return to the small kiosk at the mouth of the corridor.
The kiosk is interesting because it has become a vital part of purchasing the food which we would ideally like to eat in the comfort of our homes. But then, we spy these treats out of the corner of our eye which we can find in no other country and only a few other places in Nigeria. It is often said that Nigerians do not have their own desserts, but this is false. In this kiosk, we find ‘Lagos Island candies’, an assortment of treats such as shuk shuk, coconut candy, and sugared peanuts.
Fast Facts: Ghana High Restaurant
Location: 34 Macarthy Street, Onikan, Lagos
Famous dish: Jollof rice
Number of employees: 30
Other services: The restaurant offers both catering and in-restaurant services.
Famous customers: Jide Kosoko, Wande Coal, Sound Sultan and Vector
While the sweets are nice, we are not dissuaded from our original mission. As such, we quickly purchase the to-go containers and make a comment to the lady manning the kiosk explaining that we will be back (in a manner reminiscent of Arnold Schwarzenegger) and return to the entrance of Ghana High. Once you step in, your senses are assaulted with a myriad of sights and sounds. But the sense which leads is without a doubt, your nose. We smell Jollof rice and various tomato-based sauces bubbling and ready to be consumed. We see various types of protein such as beef, fish, turkey and more in portions which our doctor is unlikely to be happy about, but with which our stomachs are. And we meet the women who are manning the various stations, the original stalwarts, who have been in the business almost since the day it started. Two of the stations are dedicated to the star of the show, Jollof rice, and the third station is dedicated to ewa aganyin, a type of beans that is cooked until it is extremely soft and then whipped slightly. Ewa is the Yoruba word for beans, and aganyin is a sauce which is made of finely ground and fried peppers — in one word, amazing. However, admiring the sights and sounds is one thing, but as my father used to say, the taste of the pudding is in the eating. We line up and finally, we have reached our proverbial Holy Grail. We tell the lady how much of each we would like (rice is sold in increments of 100 naira and meat in increments of 50 naira, the prices of the other proteins vary.)
Speaking to Daniel, a member of staff revealed that the restaurant has dreams both big and small for their future. In the short-term, they are aiming to install air conditioners (which makes sense given the heat in Lagos.) However, even more exciting is the hint which we were given concerning a potential new outpost in Lekki.
These are exciting times for one of Lagos Island’s oldest institutions.
This story is from ìrìn journal: The Lagos Issue