Asmara - Africa’s Little Secret

Words and photographs by Ayla Hibiri
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Lost in time and almost completely unexploited by commercial tourism, Eritrea is one of the most wonderful and inspiring countries.

A true modernist masterpiece, it remains largely unchanged since it’s Italian colonisers left in 1941, leaving behind a playground of architectural gems and an aura of forgotten glorious days.

Time feels slow in Asmara, with very little connection to the outside world, everyone there is trying to outsmart and outlive a very oppressive regime.

There is no constitution, no functioning judiciary and no space for meaningful opposition or free media. Young men and women are forcibly recruited for an indefinite military service making it a major source of refugees trying to reach Europe. Despite all of that, spirits are high and when people are not hustling, they are spending quality time together.

Meeting in the infamous bowling alley, and around pool tables, sipping on cappuccinos, playing dominos, cycling and eating in pizzerias.

With the elegance of the city as a backdrop, they wait for better and free-er days.

A rich and humbling place, I am grateful for having found my way there and I encourage you to do the same.

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